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| Photo by ALB: Dough ready to be wrapped and go into freezer. Other dough-ball is already in the refrigerator. |
Adapted from Dorie Greenspan who adapted it from MODERNIST PIZZA by the Modernist Cuisine team, Nathan Myhrvold & head chef Francisco Migoya
Makes three 14-inch (35-cm) pizzas
Total Time: Active 15–20 minutes / Inactive 6 hours
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Here are some very good notes from the Modernist Cuisine Team (they're the "we"), with some added commentary from Michael. Dorie recommends reading these notes, then the recipe in its entirety, and then the notes once more before you set to work. This is a project! My notes are "ALB."
We recommend Giusto’s High Performer High Protein Unbleached Flour.
Michael says: I usually use King Arthur Bread Flour because it’s easy for me to get locally. In Paris, I use regular King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour, which Dorie brings over for testing her recipes.
ALB used Gold Medal All Trumps Flour.
When you are adding the oil to the mixer, try to pour the oil toward the center of the dough rather than to the outside of the dough. This helps keep it from sloshing around the bowl and makes it easier for the mixer to fully incorporate it into the dough.
We typically use a dough hook to mix all our medium-crust pizza doughs. If the ingredient quantities aren’t large enough for the dough hook to mix them well in a stand mixer, use a paddle attachment initially to mix the ingredients uniformly. Once you have a homogeneous mass (the dough is sticky and wet, and there are no visible clumps or unincorporated water), switch to a hook attachment.
Alb used the dough hook, and stopped it once to scrape the sides.
Final mix time at higher speeds may vary from machine to machine.
Michael says: If your flour is not High Protein, that might also increase the time it takes to get to the final stage.
Whatever the model and yield, the goal is to achieve a good mix and full gluten development. Consider our suggested times as guidelines only. Use the windowpane test to help determine the dough’s stage of gluten development.
Michael says: With regular unbleached flour and our old but trusty KitchenAid K5A, it takes almost 30 minutes for the dough to pass the windowpane test.
After preshaping, you can also cold-proof this dough at 39°F for 1–2 days for even better baking and texture results. If you cold-proof the dough, remove the dough from refrigeration 1 1/2–2 hours before shaping so it warms up and is easier to stretch out.
Michael says: If it’s just the two of us, I freeze the extra dough as soon as I form it into balls. To defrost it, I put it in the refrigerator overnight – that way it defrosts evenly – then take it out, bring it to room temperature and carry on (step 13 below).
ALB says if you aren't using the metric measurements but using Cups, backoff on the water or increase your flour. The dough is very wet otherwise.
INGREDIENTS
2 cups (480 grams) water, 70 F/21 C
1 teaspoon instant dry yeast (Michael and ALB use SAF brand)
4 2/3 cups (625 grams) high-gluten bread flour, 13%–14% protein (see notes)
1 tablespoon + 1/4 teaspoon (13 grams) diastatic malt powder (you can order this, but Michael says that, in a pinch, you can sub an equal amount of sugar)
2 1/4 teaspoons (12.5 grams) fine salt (ALB used Kosher, because she wasn't paying attention)
1 tablespoon + 1 1/4 teaspoons (20 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
MAKING THE DOUGH
1) Combine the water and yeast in the mixer’s bowl and whisk to dissolve the yeast.
2) Add the flour and malt powder, and mix on low speed to a shaggy mass, about 1 minute. Use the dough hook here; see notes.
3) Mix on medium speed to low gluten development, about 5 minutes.
4) Add the salt and mix on medium speed until it is fully incorporated, about 1 minute.
5) Add the oil with the machine running on medium speed and mix the dough until it reaches full gluten development, about 11 minutes. This can take longer; see notes. For ALB it took 20 minutes, but that could be a function of the mixer. It gets very hot, and moves around a lot, so medium on a KA is "3" for her.
6) Perform the windowpane test to assess gluten development. Take a portion of dough in your hands and stretch it: the more the dough can stretch without tearing, the more the gluten has developed. The dough will hold the window for at least 8–10 seconds and it can be stretched to the point that it is nearly see-through when it has reached full gluten development.
7) Transfer the dough to a lightly floured worktable. Cover well with plastic wrap.
8) Bench rest for 20 minutes.
9) Divide the dough into three even-sized pieces.
Michael says: I divide the dough into 4 pieces for two reasons: 1) we’re often only two people and a 14-inch pizza is too much for us; and 2) in Paris, our oven is too small to easily accommodate a 14-incher. (ALB's note: I got 3...this is why I'm fat
10) To pre-shape, place each cut square of dough smooth side down. Fold the top one-third of the dough toward the middle, and then fold the bottom one-third toward the middle, overlapping the ends slightly to form an envelope.
11) Rotate the dough 90° and roll the dough up lengthwise.
12) Gently round the dough with both hands, leaving the seam side down, to create a tight, round package.
13) If necessary, pinch the seam shut. This is important to prevent it from ripping when you shape it.
14) Repeat steps 10–13 with the two remaining pieces of dough .
15) Place on a sheet pan. Spray a very light mist of water over the dough. (ALB sprayed with PAM)
16) Cover the dough well with plastic wrap.
ALB Cold-fermented (one in the fridge for 48 hours( and froze the 2 other wrapped doughs so skipped 17 and 18. Follow the Pre-shaping Note for how long, how to defrost, and how to let it come to room-temperature.
17) Proof the dough, covered, for 4 1/2–5 1/2 hours at 70°F.
18) Test for proof using the fingertip test. Gently press the exposed surface of the dough for 2 seconds; the pressure should leave a small dent in the dough; it will slowly spring back, but the indentation should remain clearly visible after 1–2 seconds.
19) Shape, assemble, and bake the pizza – either follow your own recipe or keep scrolling.
HOW TO SHAPE AND BAKE A PIZZA
Adapted from MODERNIST PIZZA by the Modernist Cuisine team, Nathan Myhrvold & head chef Francisco Migoya
1) Preheat the oven to 550°F for at least 30 minutes with a baking steel or baking stone in the top third of the oven. Some home ovens will not reach 550°F (in some cases 525°F is the highest they will get). If this is the case, increase the baking time by 1–2 minutes. If you prefer a darker crust, simply bake the pizza for longer, but check it every 30 seconds after the recommended time to ensure it doesn’t burn.
Michael says: In our Paris oven, where this pizza was baked, we use “top and bottom convection” and put the rack in the center of the oven.
2) Generously flour your worktable.
3) Lift the pizza dough from the sheet pan using a narrow, sharp bench knife.
4) Place it on the worktable, seam side up and dust the top with more flour.
5) Press down on the dough with your fingers, leaving a 0.5–1 inch border. You will not need your palms or thumbs yet. Your fingers will arch naturally, so don’t make them too stiff.
6) Rotate the dough 180° and repeat step 5. The point is to create an even disc that is flat in the center and has an even rim.
7) Flip the dough over and flatten the center again, pushing the dough in an outward motion to extend the central part of the dough. It should be 6–8 inches in diameter.
8) Place the dough disc on the backs of your hands so that the smooth side is in contact with your hands.
9) Stretch your hands apart gently, rotating the dough 90° as you stretch farther and farther. Keep stretching the dough until it reaches 14 inches in diameter.
10) Distribute the toppings that need to be baked evenly to the rim.
Michael says: I do this when the dough is on the peel (I dust the peel with semolina) – I think it’s easier to move the loaded pizza around this way. ALB puts the dough on a cornmeal-dusted heated pizza stonebefore doing the toppings. Have the toppings ready before doing this.
11) Slide the dough onto a peel or slide the peel at about a 5° angle under the dough, using quick, jerking back-and-forth motions, until it is completely on the peel. (See Michael’s note to Step 10)
12) Load onto the baking steel or baking stone in the oven with a quick pull-away motion.
13) Bake for 8–10 minutes, rotating 180° halfway through baking.
Michael says: Baking time really depends on the oven. Start checking at 4 minutes. ALB bakes it at 550 for 7 minutes.
14) Check the doneness of the bottom of the pizza.
15) Remove the pizza and place on a serving tray. ALB: Cool for 5 minutes. Cut into 6–8 triangles.
16) Distribute whatever other toppings you’re using over the pizza. For example, if you’ve got soft, fresh cheese, cooked meats, like prosciutto, or salad, like arugula, you’d put these on the individual slices of pizza now.
Michael says: Putting fresh toppings on the pizza when it comes out of the oven is really the way to go. The contrast of textures is terrific and fresh, uncooked ingredients also bring brightness. Cutting the slices and then topping them individually is also a great idea, but we don’t do that.
I say: I’m loving the idea of cutting the slices, setting out a few toppings and seasonings and having everyone make their own pizza. Party time!
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